You probably know I make a full line of water based wood finishes – everything from primers and sealers, to stains and topcoats.
And while I’d like to think you’re using all of them, all the time…
I know that’s not the case.
There are some very good wood finishing products made by companies other than mine.
And more importantly, this isn’t about me, It’s about you…
…and helping you produce your best work, regardless if you prefer using someone else’s products instead of, or in combination with, mine.
I get a lot of questions about the latter point, i.e., “compatibility,” so below are some common products that I’ve found “play nice” with Emtech water based wood finishes.
There are definitely others (and I welcome your thoughts on this) but here is a short list of compatible products you may be using or considering right now.
If you’re sealing a clear, non-pigmented finish…
Zinsser SealCoat is a popular product, and I’ve found it works great under all of my clear Emtech topcoats (and sealers, too, for that matter). That said, full-strength Zinsser SealCoat may create a fine craze or crackle effect underneath my (or other) water based finishes. So, to prevent this, I strongly recommend the following three things when using SealCoat under Emtech finishes: One, thin the SealCoat with denatured alcohol at a ratio of 1:1. Two, apply thin coats, averaging 1-2 mils in wet film thickness. And three, do not exceed two coats of reduced SealCoat prior to applying Emtech finishes. Follow these simple adjustments and you will have a magnificent final finish.
If you need a stain-blocking sealer underneath a pigmented finish…
A lot of customers using Emtech 6500 Pigmented Lacquer have success using it over Zinsser BIN Shellac Primer (again, assuming it is reduced with denatured alcohol at a 1:1 ratio to prevent checking and cracking). BIN Primer is an excellent stain-blocking primer for use on woods that are high in tannin or may be saturated with oil, pitch or some form of contamination that may bleed up into the color coat.
If you DON’T need a stain blocker under a pigmented finish…
Try Benjamin Moore “Fresh Start” primers. These primers come in water based and oil based versions and are very user-friendly right out of the can — no thinning required. Yes, I make the high-performance Emtech HSF5000 Primer/Surfacer, but sometimes a heavy-bodied primer is not required, or sometimes you’re in a pinch. When in doubt, yes, it’s safe to use Benjamin Moore Fresh Start – it complements the EM6500 Pigmented Lacquer nicely.
If you need a beautiful, water based furniture or exterior paint…
Try Old Village Paint, they are a boutique paint manufacturer that has been making classic-colored paints for more than 200 years. When you use our Emtech EM9300 water based polycarbonate urethane on top of them, customers report getting a tough, protective shell that can keep the paint looking great for years. Old Village also makes a unique line of specialty finishes for creating vintage/antique effects such as crackle-effect and glazing.
If you need to finish wooden floors or stair treads…
I can’t, in good conscience, recommend ANY of my Emtech products, not as the topcoat anyway. That’s because my water based wood finishes are designed to finish silky smooth and fast/slippery, which is exactly what you DON’T want on floors or stairs. There are, however, some great flooring and stairs finishing products that work well OVER Emtech products, namely, those made by Absolute Coatings. They make an excellent line of waterborne urethane wood floor finishes with the required, slip-resistant properties you want on wood floors and stairs.
These are just a few of the products I’ve found “play nice” with Emtech water based wood finishes. Do you have experience with others? Or, ones that do not play so nice? Please share your thoughts or read what others are saying in the comments section below.
As always, stay safe and stay creative!
AquaCoat grain filler works well over EM1000 sealer, under WVX on mahogany (solid and ply).
Bob – Thank you for sharing your experience with us. I am familiar with the AquaCoat filler and will see how it behaves with other Emtech products.
-JW-
Jeff,
Thanks for the great info on using SealCoat. These posts with the tips and tricks are very helpful!
Thank you, Chris!
-JW-
Jeff,
If you could formulate a WB version of BIN primer, I think you would have a real winner. I love BIN primer for stain blocking but hate the spray gun clean up afterwards.
Why doesn’t WB shellac have the same stain-blocking properties as alcohol based shellac?
As for EM 9300, I sprayed some over Benjamin Moore WB Impervo on plywood panels that are space fillers next to a window air conditioner in my shop. That was 15 years ago. They are south facing and get full sun all day. The EM 9300 is still holding up great, with no signs of cracking, peeling, checking etc. An outstanding product.
Rob — Good to hear back from you! Glad to learn that the EM9300 has held up for you. I know of many projects that have the original EM9300 on them, dating back to year Y2K…all are looking great!
-JW-
Jeff,
Thanks for the helpful info. I plan to use EM6500 on some furniture I am refinishing. They have already been primed with BIN primer, two thin coats but not thinned 1:1 with dna. What are the chances I may experience crazing or crackling? How long after finishing would those things become evident? Thanks for your input.
Derron – Thank you for your inquiry. Being as the BIN was applied at full strength I recommend that you lightly scuff sand the dried primer with a fine sand pad (320grit) and then wipe the sanded surface with a solution of denatured alcohol and water mixed 75/25 (alcohol/water) to melt the primer and lower its film thickness. Allow the surface to dry and then apply a test application of the EM6500 onto a test part at 2mils wet and review to see if the craze effect occurs. If no effect occurs after 2 hours you should be OK to proceed. If the effect does occur I recommend a second sanding and wipedown with the alcohol/water solution to lower the film formation one more time prior to applying the EM6500.
-JW-
I appreciate the info, thanks. I always sand down my BIN coats before I paint. It turned out that I had no crazing after putting on the 6500. Topcoated with 7000 and the pieces look fantastic. Thanks for your help!
Darron – Thank you for sharing your insight with us. Greatly appreciated!
-JW-
Thanks for sharing this idea on wood working!
Thanks, Derek!
-JW-
I’ve been rolling on thin coats of non-blushing low viscosity epoxy as a grain filler, hitting it with a heat gun to flow out the bubbles, then sanding well with 220 grit. EM6000 with crosslinker has made our oak kitchen table surface bulletproof for the past 4 years. I’m doing the same now on bamboo slab kitchen cabinet doors
Hi Jeff, I’m using shellac for a toner on a box. I started with Sealcoat tinted with Transtint Brown Mahogany and Black. Ithe Sealcoat 1:1 with denatured alc. I’m using an airbrush so not getting super thick coats, but to get the desired effect a lot of light coats. I sprayed, again with an airbursh, 7000 high build in gloss and after a couple of light coats got fine crazing in the shellac. Ok. I knew it was possible, but have never had that problem. I had let the Sealcoat dry overnight. Sanded everything back and tried Emtech Ultraseal in the same way. Same process, only l let it dry for 3 hours rather than overnight. The crazing is even worse. Any ideas why this is happening with compatible products? This is getting frustrating. Thanks. Steve Portner
Stephen — SealCoat has a few odd behaviors when a water based clear coat is applied over when the shellac is not reduced by 50% with alcohol – micro-crazing is one of them. If the SealCoat is not thinned it can and will show checking/crazing. I recommend that you fine sand the effected surface(s) with 400-grit AO paper, then wipe down with a solution of water and denatured alcohol mixed 1:1. You can now apply a reduced coat of EM7000 (5% water or 5% SA5 Retarder) over the prep’d surface.
Also, air-brush applications use very small fluid tip sizes, which will starve the coating of the solvents in the formula to form a film. If you are pressed to use an airbrush I suggest thinning the EM7000 with SA5 Retarder 10% by liquid volume to compensate for the solvent being lost via the airbrush application.
-JW-
Hi Jeff, I am using quartersawn white oak for an exterior door. I would like to make the figure “pop”. Can I use danish oil as a first coat to highlight the figure? If not, do you have a suggestion for highlighting the figure and what I should use on the exterior and interior of the door? Thank you in advance.
Tom
Tom – Yes, you can use danish oil to bring out the grain. However, ensure that you allow the oil to dry for a minimum of 48-72 hours before you proceed with cleaning off any residual oil with alcohol and water mixed 1:1.
-JW-